© Tapani Salmi 2007

Bamboo ferrules are light in weigth but not very easy to build. They are also considered to be thick, fat and ugly!

I have previously build hex cane ferrules using
Allen Wrench Key as a Model
Scarf Joint Ferrule Using Shrink Tube and
a Cane Coated Ferrule
I wanted to make an light, easy to build and small in size cane ferrule for a four strip (quad) rod.
Here are photos and picture about the structure and building.
The strips go overlapping to each other inside the ferrule to give extra stability.
I call the joint and the ferrule a "FISHTAIL FERRULE".

This is a schematic picture of the location four quad strips at the end of each sections. Two opposite strips are cut and glued to be longer than the two remaining strips. The "fish-tail" overlapping part is 10-12 mm in length.
The view from the end of the section and the side-view.
Two longer strips are brown and two shorter strips are pink.

End of butt and tip sections, side view. Note the FISHTAIL structure!

End of butt and tip sections from above. The head of the sections are a little rounded.

The connection of butt and tip sections inside the bamboo ferrule. The sections are overlapping and partly inside each other.

The ferrule around the joint connection of the sections is build using four bamboo strips. The total length of the ferrule is 80-100 mm. The final width of the ferrule is the thickness of the taper at the junction + 3.0 mm. Here the rod is 5 mm thick and the strips are 7 mm wide.

The ferrule strips are 1.5 mm in thickness and are cut using a knife using the power fibre (=surface) part of bamboo.

The two rod sections (width 5 mm) and the four flat strips with dimensions 90 mm x 7 mm x 1.5 mm (length, width, thickness).

The four ferrule strips are sanded flat and impregnated with super glue. The "tip ends" of the strips are sanded thin.

The binding of the four strips around the connection of the sections. Here the tip end of the ferrule is right and the free end of the ferrule (butt) is left.

The "free end" of the ferrule in details. Note the geometric position of the strips

The four strips are glued to the TIP section (left end in this photo) with length of 40 mm using eg "5 min epoxy". Do not put any glue to the but section of the ferrule (right end), it should be clean!
The butt section goes 50 mm inside the ferrule.
In addition the sections are overlapped with 10-12 mm.

The ferrule is glued to the tip section and thereafter the binding thread is loosened. The "free end" of the ferrule is not glued at this moment, note again the position of the flat strips.

File, cut or sand the extra 0.5 mm from the flat strips and sand the corners of the ferrule a little rounded. There is no glue in the seams at the "free end" (=butt end, right in the photo) of the ferrule.

Put the butt section inside the ferrule and wrap the ferrule with nylon or silk thread.
Because there is no glue in the seams the size of the ferrule is adjusted accurately around the butt section using the wrap!

Thereafter pour glue or varnish to the wrapped ferrule. Be careful not to glue the butt end fixed to the ferrule (use some wax to the butt end)! Now the dimension of the final ferrule is exactly right.

If the thread is eg white silk you may have a transparent wrap. The ferrule is ready.
Put some candle or wax to the end of the butt section to have a slippery and smooth function of the ferrule.

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